From Russia, With Love (aka We Were Russian Once ... and Young)
(NOTE: The passage forthwith was written on June 21.)
Russia has been cool so far. It's been raining for the past 48+ hours (or 2+ days), so it's been really gloomy and gross, but before that it had been pretty sunny and warm. The apartment I'm staying in is nice. It's 2 floors, and I have a bedroom with my own bathroom in it. It's right in a park (called Patriarch's Pond) that's famous because a classic Russian novel (The Master and Margarita) took place largely in it.
Friday 6/16
The flight wasn't as bad as I had expected and I got through the airport and customs without a problem. A guy named Zhenya who works for my cousin Bernard's bank picked me up at the airport, but he doesn't speak any English, so it was a slightly awkward hour-long car ride into the city with him on the first day (even though we did communicate a little with the help of my Berlitz phrasebook). He took me to meet Bernard for lunch at a good Italian place. We ate with a writer from the Wall Street Journal and they talked business and politics and Russia. I was pretty tired and listened to some of it and spaced out for the rest. Then Bernard took me up to his office to show me the place ("Man, it was nice! They called it the Radisson." --Willie Williams). After that, he dropped me off at the apartment and went back to work.
By the way, Bernard and his wife Fatima have two full-time drivers, one for each of them. Zhenya drives for Bernard in a metallic white/beigish Lexus LS430, and Alexei drives for Fatima in a black Toyota Land Cruiser. So these guys pick them up whenever they need to go anywhere, and they never have to use public transportation or drive themselves (public transportation, by the way, consists of either taking a trolley bus, the Metro -- apparently very nice and efficient, 9 million passengers a day -- or a taxi -- which there are very few of. So most people just basically hitchhike, and Bernard has told me I should if I want to, also. Seems very shady, I know. You just hold your hand out, any random person stops, you get in and give them 100 Rubles (about $3.50), and they take you wherever you need to go in the city. Moscow has 11 million people (editor's note: I have recently been told Moscow and its environs is home to as many as 17 million people, which makes it more populous than Greece, the Czech Republic, and any number of other considerably large countries), and it's the biggest city (and maybe also the most expensive) in Europe. I guess it's good that Bernard has paid for so many meals thus far.
Anyway, so I got to the apartment, and Fatima was there to show me around. I hung out for a while and got settled in, and when Bernard got home from work, I went with him and Fatima to meet some people for drinks at a bar. There was a guy (Richard Sobel) who is a partner in Bernard's office, Alfa Capital. He went to Stanford undergrad and got his MBA from Harvard. Pretty nice credentials, very nice guy. We talked about stuff. There was also a Russian woman who spoke English. I think she was a real estate broker and they were discussing work-related things. So we had a couple beers and then walked to a couple outdoor restaurants that were full, eventually ending up at the Starlite Diner in another park (Bernard owns 15% of the restaurant and controls the decision-making for people who own another 45% combined, so he's basically the majority owner). I had a Reuben. It was good. Fries too, I think. I was pretty tired. After that, we walked back home and I went to sleep.
Russia has been cool so far. It's been raining for the past 48+ hours (or 2+ days), so it's been really gloomy and gross, but before that it had been pretty sunny and warm. The apartment I'm staying in is nice. It's 2 floors, and I have a bedroom with my own bathroom in it. It's right in a park (called Patriarch's Pond) that's famous because a classic Russian novel (The Master and Margarita) took place largely in it.
Friday 6/16
The flight wasn't as bad as I had expected and I got through the airport and customs without a problem. A guy named Zhenya who works for my cousin Bernard's bank picked me up at the airport, but he doesn't speak any English, so it was a slightly awkward hour-long car ride into the city with him on the first day (even though we did communicate a little with the help of my Berlitz phrasebook). He took me to meet Bernard for lunch at a good Italian place. We ate with a writer from the Wall Street Journal and they talked business and politics and Russia. I was pretty tired and listened to some of it and spaced out for the rest. Then Bernard took me up to his office to show me the place ("Man, it was nice! They called it the Radisson." --Willie Williams). After that, he dropped me off at the apartment and went back to work.
By the way, Bernard and his wife Fatima have two full-time drivers, one for each of them. Zhenya drives for Bernard in a metallic white/beigish Lexus LS430, and Alexei drives for Fatima in a black Toyota Land Cruiser. So these guys pick them up whenever they need to go anywhere, and they never have to use public transportation or drive themselves (public transportation, by the way, consists of either taking a trolley bus, the Metro -- apparently very nice and efficient, 9 million passengers a day -- or a taxi -- which there are very few of. So most people just basically hitchhike, and Bernard has told me I should if I want to, also. Seems very shady, I know. You just hold your hand out, any random person stops, you get in and give them 100 Rubles (about $3.50), and they take you wherever you need to go in the city. Moscow has 11 million people (editor's note: I have recently been told Moscow and its environs is home to as many as 17 million people, which makes it more populous than Greece, the Czech Republic, and any number of other considerably large countries), and it's the biggest city (and maybe also the most expensive) in Europe. I guess it's good that Bernard has paid for so many meals thus far.
Anyway, so I got to the apartment, and Fatima was there to show me around. I hung out for a while and got settled in, and when Bernard got home from work, I went with him and Fatima to meet some people for drinks at a bar. There was a guy (Richard Sobel) who is a partner in Bernard's office, Alfa Capital. He went to Stanford undergrad and got his MBA from Harvard. Pretty nice credentials, very nice guy. We talked about stuff. There was also a Russian woman who spoke English. I think she was a real estate broker and they were discussing work-related things. So we had a couple beers and then walked to a couple outdoor restaurants that were full, eventually ending up at the Starlite Diner in another park (Bernard owns 15% of the restaurant and controls the decision-making for people who own another 45% combined, so he's basically the majority owner). I had a Reuben. It was good. Fries too, I think. I was pretty tired. After that, we walked back home and I went to sleep.
